Among all the astounding things about Tokyo, for me the single most astounding is the food business. The number of restaurants and cafés and lunch counters and bakeries and bars and street vendors beggars description. In my experience, most of them are good.
On this trip, I got off the JR once at the wrong station, fairly late at night, and didn’t realise it. I thought “I don’t recognize this exit, I’ll just orbit the station till I spot a landmark”. Which didn’t work that well, I was wandering down back streets off back streets. And every other building on every little alley had an a couple of places to eat. And in every one of them there were people eating.
Another story. When I was heading home, I decided to take the airport bus from my hotel, departing at 12:50. I got to the hotel at 12:10 or so and bought a ticket and felt hungry. I looked at the high prices and boring fare in the lobby café and headed out. Across the way there was a little square with some benches and shade, and on the street were parked three separate trucks selling box lunches out the back; also a more formal cart with an umbrella, but the truck guys’ food looked better: rice, fried egg, a couple of mini-salads and four mystery-meat patties for ¥500. Tasty!